Setting Water For SIAMESE FIGHTING FISH

Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens), female, (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Many people believe and are encouraged by their Local Pet Shop, to simply use water from the tap and only add chlorine neutralizer when obtaining water for their Siamese Fighter's tank. While this method will work for a small percentage of locations, it is a recipe for an unhappy, sick or dead Siamese Fighter in most locations. With the numerous chemicals used to treat our water, gone or the days when you simply add water than fish.

Phosphate is added to our water to prevent pipes from rusting and in very small amounts is beneficial to fish, but in large quantities is a silent killer. Phosphate is not like chlorine that will dissipate from the water within a given time frame. It is the opposite, building in concentration if the correct water is not used in water changes. A simple test kit will tell you what the phosphate reading is in your water daily. You will find that certain days the water will be unusable and others the reading is fine. It is on these days that you fill a drum with water to get ready to set.

PH is the next factor to take into consideration for your Siamese Fighting Fish. Siamese Fighting Fish like a PH range of 6.8 to 7. Once again a simple test will tell you what the PH of your tap water is. However, it is important to retest the same water after you have let it sit with an air stone or pump to turn it over for at least 24 hours. Depending on your location, the PH may rise, fall or stay the same. A PH that stays the same or falls is easier to set to the necessary requirements than one that rises. To adjust your PH up or down, you can purchase products from your Local Pet Shop, but steer clear from the powder forms of these products, as they can create phosphate problems. 

The liquid products are the better alternative. If you are adjusting large amounts of water, 200L or more a week, these products are expensive. Alternatives are Bi-Carb Soda (baking soda) for PH up and Hydrochloric Acid for PH down. Hydrochloric Acid is a corrosive poison, so follow all the safety directions on the container and store in an appropriate location. Hydrochloric acid can be purchased from a pool shop. Add small amounts of PH up or down, and retest the PH around an hour later. Sometimes, it may seem that nothing is happening, then all of a sudden there are results. This is why it is better to do this in a separate container than in your Siamese Fighter's tank, where you can do harm.

Once you have the PH range, you need to set the water hardness. For Siamese Fighting Fish, the water hardness range is 450 TDS (totally dissolved solids) or a KH of 2-3 and a GH 4-5. This is important as it measures the mineral content in the water. Not enough minerals, means a sick or dead Siamese Fighting Fish. If your water is above this range, mixing with rainwater or RO water will help you to lower the reading. If your water is below this range, adding tropical salt, aquarium salt or rock salt will raise your water hardness. Be aware that some commercial aquarium salts will create phosphate, just like the powder form of PH up and down, so check that the one you are using is fine. Also check the PH level again, as this may raise with the adding of the salt.

Once you have all these areas in range for Siamese Fighting Fish, it is right to use. Because of the time is taken to set water, it is advisable to set enough water for several water changes. This allows you time to set more water before you need it. Store set water away from chemicals, such as insect sprays, hair sprays, deodorants and cleaning products, as these are all deadly for any fish. As time-consuming as this may sound, it is better for you Siamese Fighting Fish. If you cannot find the time to set the water correctly, check with your local pet shop as several wholesalers now sell bottled water especially for Siamese Fighting Fish.

By Kerry Stubbs - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Suckermouth Catfish - Pleco - Hypostomus PLECOSTOMUS

Plecostomus

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KOI FISH - A Beginner's Guide to the KOHAKU and the BEKKO

Murata Kohaku
Photo by KoiQuestion

The Kohaku is the most highly cherished of the koi varieties; a good specimen will be very valuable and really stands out in the pond. It is described as a two colour, non-metallic koi, namely a white bodied Koi with a red (Hi) pattern on its back.

On a good specimen of Kohaku, the pattern should have clearly defined edges and the white should be a good unblemished colour, often described as snow white. The contrast between the two colours can be striking and this is why the Kohaku is so highly prized.

Although a Kohaku cannot have colour variations, it does have pattern varieties and these are generally known by the number, or placement, of Hi patches along the length of the body. Maruten (one circular Hi patch on the head and other Hi on the body), Nidan (two Hi patches along the back) and Inazuma (a single Hi patch along the back in the shape of a lightning strike) are some examples.

These are classic patterns, but other pattern formations are equally attractive, provided the pattern is well balanced. Normally, there should be no Hi on any of the fins of a Kohaku; they should be white at the body joint, changing to almost clear at the tips.

Otsuka Shiro Bekko
Photo by KoiQuestion

The body volume of a Nidan Kohaku is superb. The two patches are almost linked by the extended Hi on the right side. The white nose and caudal regions set this fish off wonderfully.

A beautiful Maruten Kohaku with a snow white skin and beautiful pectoral fins. Good body shape and the excellent pectoral fins make this a koi that will really stand out in your pond.

The Bekko is described as a fish with a black pattern on a coloured base. The black (Sumi) appears as balanced patches along the back of the koi, above the lateral line but not on the head. As in the Utsuri, the Bekko occurs in the base colour variations Shiro (white) Bekko, Aka (red) Bekko and Ki (yellow) Bekko.

By Daniel Hansen - Article Source: EzineArticles

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AFRICAN CLAWED FROGS As Pets

Xenopus laevis - Photo by      brian.gratwicke 

Over the last few years, there has been an increasing popularity of keeping frogs as pets. The African Clawed Frog is no exception. Although a little less interactive than non-aquatic frogs, they are a joy to have if you truly want a frog for a pet. Unlike tree frogs or toads, African clawed frogs are aquatic. That means that stay in the water all the time, and come to the surfaced to breathe.

Widely used for in scientific experiments, Xenopus have bread domestically for years. They were used for human pregnancy tests before more modern methods came into play. The female Xenopus was exposed to the urine of a woman, and if the frog laid eggs the woman was pregnant.

Today you can find African Clawed Frogs in many pet and discount stores including Wal-Mart. They are usually small when purchased, but can grow to be five inches in length. Some females have been reported to grow up to eight inches.

These frogs have healthy appetites and will consume almost anything in the tank. If they can get it in their mouths, they will eat it, including fish or other animals. They will even eat live aquarium plants. You can purchase specially formulated frog food at many pet stores or online. If you do not have access to frog food, they will eat floating goldfish pellets or shrimp pellets. An occasional treat of ghost shrimp or small fish is nice, but should not be considered a staple. They will also eat worms. A big juicy night crawler cut into a couple of pieces is always welcome.

Since these frogs grow at a rapid rate, an aquarium of at least ten gallons is necessary. You may want to choose large rocks instead of gravel for your aquarium. There is a chance that gravel could be ingested and cause an impaction problem.

A filter is not mandatory for frog tanks but may help to keep the water cleaner. You may also want to do partial water once a week to ensure water quality. Always keep a cover on your frog tank, because these frogs are great jumpers. If your frog were to jump out and be left unattended for an extended period of time, it would die. Their skin will dry out relatively quickly.

With the right equipment and some tender loving care, you frog will make an excellent pet for years to come. There are some reports of these frogs living for 20 to 25 years!

By Kim Horton - Article Source: EzineArticles

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Bacterial Aquarium FISH DISEASES

(Photo credit: Wikipedia)

There are many diseases that can affect the fish in your aquarium. Most diseases can be put into four major categories; Bacterial, Viral, Parasites and Fungus. The common aquarium fish diseases we will focus on in this article are bacterial. There are much more then what we will cover today but the ones below are a good mixture of fatality and ease of treatment.

One must remember that the first step in fighting any disease in your aquarium is to observe your fish on a daily basis for any signs of illness or irregular behaviour. Over time you will naturally know when something doesn't look right. When any aquarium disease is detected you should act immediately to help improve the chances of your fish making a full recovery.

Fin rot is probably one of the most common bacterial infections that appear in aquarium fish. The primary cause of fin rot is poor water quality. It is very easy to diagnosis fin rot because the fins are actually rotting away and will look as if they are dissolving down to the body of the fish. There are many medications that you can purchase in your local pet store designed specifically to address fin rot. You will also want to do frequent water changes to help improve the quality of the water.

Guppies and other fish that are considered livebearers are very susceptible to another bacterial disease called mouth fungus. The most obvious symptom that your fish is suffering from mouth fungus is that of cotton like growth appearing in the mouth. This growth will prevent the fish from eating so you will also observe a loss of weight. When treated quickly with an antibiotic bath mouth fungus is not fatal. You will also want to carry out partial water changes of your aquarium.

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Vibriosis can quickly become fatal in fish and spread rapidly throughout your aquarium. There are several signs of infection, reddening of the body, changes in colour and a swollen abdomen and eyes. It is extremely important that if you notice these symptoms that you remove the infected fish to a quarantine tank as quickly as possible to help fight spreading of the infection to the other fish. The reality is that vibriosis is fatal. Antibiotics may help but are very unlikely. One should focus on protecting the other fish in the aquarium from the bacterial disease. By doing full water changes and treating the water with antibiotics.

The last bacterial disease to be discussed that has no treatment is piscine tuberculosis. There will be a major loss of weight and colour in your aquarium fish. The eyes of your fish may abnormally protrude from the body. This attacks the fish's respiratory system and is highly contagious and fatal. Piscine tuberculosis is less common but if it occurs you will lose much fish. The only treatment is to separate all the fish into individual quarantine tanks and observe. You will have to strip down the main tank, disinfect it and restock it. Ultimately you have to start all over again.

Keeping an aquarium can bring many hours of enjoyment. The best treatment for any disease that can affect your aquarium fish is prevention. By regularly observing your fish and acting upon signs of disease quickly you can keep your fish happy and healthy and avoid any catastrophes.

By David Clemen David J. Clemen is an active contributor to http://freeaquariumadvice.com a completely free online resource for both the beginner and expert aquarium enthusiast. Article Source: EzineArticles

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BREEDING DISCUS For Beginners

Red Turquise Discus Fish - (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

More and more people take up the fish breeding hobby, which would explain a large number of materials and documentation sources that teach breeding discus for beginners. Whether you choose an online e-book or a guide you buy from the bookshop, breeding discus for beginners may prove more easily said than done sometimes. You need to pay all the attention because if you follow some very strict guidelines, the rest of the breeding discus for beginners is truly piece of cake. Let’s see how you recognize the best materials about discus.

First of all, if you have no knowledge of the living conditions of the discus in the wild,  the material about breeding discus for beginners should help you learn how to recreate the most close-to-natural environment you can. In the same category of breeding discus for beginners falls the understanding of the feeding specificity. Normally you feed the discus frozen bloodworms and shrimp, but you may learn that a bag of moss placed in the water will create a closer imitation of the Amazon, as the normal background of these creatures. Thus, breeding discus for beginners requires lots of detailed information and goodwill on the part of the apprentices.

A great place to learn the secrets of breeding discus for beginners is a site such as discus-fish-secrets revealing you plenty of tips about the tank conditions and the prevention of disease too. Lots of e-books and videos that deal with breeding discus for beginners are advertised online, the good part is that they come up with solutions that are close within reach and not too difficult to understand. Make sure you choose one that looks reader-friendly meaning that you don’t need a huge amount of work to understand the supposedly easy breeding discus for beginner’s techniques.

Click Here For More Secrets  - Article Directory: Article Dashboard

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Five Main Types of Freshwater AQUARIUM PLANTS

[WATER PLANTS] - Pogostemom Stellata - Nesaea Pedicellata - Staurogyne repens - Echinodorus Radicans - Cryptocoryne Undalatus Kasselman - Nomaphila Stricta Thay - Anubias Barteri var. Petitte - Anubias Minima - Bolbitis Heudelotii - Crinum Calamistratum - Cryptocoryne Beckettii 'petchii' - Cryptocoryne Wendtii 'Tropica' - Alternanthera Reineckii 'Purple' (lilacina) - Echinodorus 'Ozelot' - Hemianthus Micranthemoides - Proserpinaca Paulustris 'Cuba' - Hemianthus Callitrichoides 'Cuba' - Cyperus Helferi - Vesicularia Dubyana - Hydrocotyle Sibthorpioides (maritima) - Hygrophila Pinnatifida - Microsorum Pteropus 'Narrow' - Microsorum Pteropus 'Petit' - Microsorum Pteropus - Microsorum Pteropus 'Windelov' [FISH] - Otocinclus Affinis - Crossocheilus Siamensis - Paracheirodon Axelrodi - Hyphessobrycon Amandae - Corydoras Aeneus (Albino) - Corydoras Aeneus (Red Fin) [SUBSTRATE] Dupla Substrate [FILTER] Eheim Classic 2260 [LIGHT] Arcadia OT2 Freshwater 1000mm 4x39w T5 [CO2] Dupla Armatur PRO, Dupla Magnetventil and GLA Atomic diffuser [COMMENTS] The tank was setup in a way that would bring back memories of my summer holidays in Portugal, Lisbon. There is a strong light from the left side that will enhance the reds of the Cryptocorynes, Proserpinaca and Alternanthera right underneath it. The layout and color gives the illusion that the sun is rising from between the plants, with the red hues being the sun itself.

Photo: Wikimedia

Yes, you can actually grow live plants in your freshwater aquarium! In fact, it's better to landscape your aquarium with live plants. For one, they offer nutrients to your fish. They also offer hiding places, especially for babies, "fry", as they are called. And they make the aquarium healthier, often adding more oxygen and cleaning the water of toxins. So even if you prefer plastic plants, you might want to give live plants a try. They're more interesting and aren't hard at all to grow.

The general rule of thumb is to landscape your aquarium with plants that would probably be native to your fish's original environment. Even if your fish have never actually been in his native habitat, this is true. The following is a quick course in some of the live plant trade secrets of successful aquarists that you'll need to know to accessorize your freshwater aquarium. There are several main types of aquarium plants that have been found to be successful in tanks. Each group has different planting methods that will be best for them to grow healthily.

• Bulbs
• Floating plants
• Rhizomes
• Stem plants
• Other types of freshwater plants

I'll go over a few of these types here. 

Bulbs will usually grow rather large plants and will not be for all aquariums. You'll probably want to grow them in larger tanks. There are more and more bulb-type plants appearing on the market today. You can find some at your local fish store, but be sure to check the internet for a wider variety. And live plants, in general, are not very expensive. To plant bulbs, you'll need to leave the top half of the bulb exposed, the bottom half will be buried in the substrate. Usually, bulbs will grow more little bulbs and form groups, which can later be separated and spread around your aquarium.

Floating plants are really wonderful and require zero care. They just float on the surface of the tank, and in the water, too. Fish love to hide in them and eat in them, and you don't have to plant them. A lot of floaters will resemble ferns or even moss. Great to have around for the "fry" (baby fish) and for your other shy fish. If you're wanting to make your tank a little dimmer, if it seems too bright, floating plants might be a good answer because they'll filter the light and also keep your aquarium cooler.

Rhizomes are similar to bulbs, but the bulb-like root area needs to be planted totally under the substrate. The leaves will grow above the rhizome. These plants are also easy to grow. I've just gone over a couple of types of live aquarium plants here. These are easy to keep, and require almost no care, and will add a more "live" environment for your fish to live in, and they'll be happier and healthier.

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